Making the transom required some thought. The outline on the full size pattern
gives the outline on the outside of the transom but because of the bevel required,
12° on the bottom and 10° on the sides the plywood has to be cut bigger.
The building manual shows a formula to calculate how much material is needed
to compensate for the bevel. In my case I trasferred the outline on the sides by
6.7 mm and by 8 mm on the bottom.
Below: Using a caliper to scribe the extreme outline for the inner side of the transom.
The broken line shows the extra material needed for the bottom. This side will eventually
become the outside of the transom...
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Below: Transom cut and sanded down to the outer line... (the extreme size on the inside)
The inner reference lines for the framework can be seen, I will use them to accurately position
the roughly cut frame members...
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Below: I used a nailgun to temporarily fasten the framework to the plywood
and a router to cut it flush...
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Below: Finished outline of the top and bottom framing,
framing still on the "wrong" side...
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Below: Framing temporarily fastened on the "right" side of the plywood, ready for beveling...
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Below: Using power file to make the bevel...
sanding down to the inner line on the outside of the transom...
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Below: Several times under beveling I marked the surface with an inkpen as to prevent
the possibility to cut to deep in the inner edge which is already cut to dimmension...
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Below: After beveling I removed the framework from the plywood to cut the notches
for the keel, battens, chine and sheer. I transferred the beveling reference line
half the distance of 8 mm i.e. 4 mm because the framework is approx.
half the thickness of the final thickness...
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Below: Gluing with epoxy resin...
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Ever heard: "You can never have too many clamps"
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